Borates:
The Borate in the water at 50 ppm helps reduce chlorine usage by eliminating Carbon Dioxide and keeping the pH stable. Chlorine lasts longer when the pH is right at 7.6-7.8. When the chlorine is in the ideal range, the killing element in chlorine, the HOCI, is at the most balanced percentage, so the chlorine in a pool with a pH of 7.4 is 30% more effective than in a pool with a pH of 8.0. This is a significant factor in creating the safest swim environment, and the borates will keep the pH much more stable and, in turn, make the chlorine much more effective.
The pH won't change much in a pool with Borate in it. So, this is a must if you have a Salt Water Pool since the pH tends to rise dramatically. In fact, the pH can rise to over 8.4 in a Salt Water Pool very rapidly. You will find yourself putting tons of acid in each week to keep the pH below 7.8. Borates in the pool will make the pH stable and easy to control. A pool with a saltwater generator is a must. It also will keep your salt cell from building up Calcium rapidly since it sequesters the Calcium in the water. This means the salt cell will remain clean, and your salt system will run much more efficiently.
Boric Acid is a known Biostat. This prevents the algae cell from forming and multiplying. Thus, a pool with a Borate level between 30-50 ppm will prevent algae growth. Since Borate prevents algae cells from growing, algae blooms will be a thing of the past. No more algaecides or shocking the pool; algae won't grow in your pool any longer.
This is a safe method for those opposed to using any copper in your pool for fear of staining the surface. It is straightforward to control the Copper Ion output, and if it reaches 0.5 ppm, simply removing the Remington Solar will prevent any staining. In most cases, the copper level will rarely get that high.
Phosphate and Enzymes:
This one-two punch can be highly effective in allowing the chlorine to work in the pool on the intended things and not be "used up" by phosphates and non-living organics.
Instead of getting technical and trying to teach a science class explaining how enzymes work, we will try to break it down more simply. Enzymes break non-living things down into smaller and smaller bits. Many non-living things are in pool and spa water: body oils, sweat, cosmetics, and sunscreens, to name a few. This frees up the chlorine to work on the things it was intended to fight, like viruses and bacteria, instead of being wasted on these non-living organics.
Phosphate reducers are specialty chemicals used to remove phosphates from pool water. They are typically salts of aluminum or lanthanum, which, when added to water, produce insoluble phosphate compounds, which are removed through filtration, vacuuming, or both. It creates an ION exchange, causing the phosphates to drop, and they can be vacuumed and filtered out of the pool. Phosphates are food for algae, and by eliminating them from the water, you eliminate at least one primary food source for algae. This will prevent algae growth, so chlorine levels drop rapidly in some pools.
PoolRX and Mineral Systems:
Using the PoolRX on your pool route will save you time and money. The manufacturer's claim of saving 20-30% on chemical costs is plausible, and once you try a PoolRx in one of your accounts, you will be surprised by its effectiveness.
PoolRx is a mineral technology that does two straightforward things when used in your pool or spa: it eliminates all algae and allows you to use less chlorine during the pool season. The active ingredient is Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate (chelated).
The chlorine is automatically freed up by eliminating algae growth and will last longer in a pool. Mineral technologies like the Frog and Nature2 also use minerals (metals) to prevent algae.
Chlorine-Free Sun Shock:
The Remington Solar Chlorine-Free "Sun Shock" comes with everything you need in the box, including copper test strips. It is essential to test the Copper levels every few weeks to ensure they stay safe. Again, remove the product from the pool for a week or two if it gets too high. In my area of Southern California, healthy water is challenging to use, so the Anode developed a lot of build-ups while in use. So it is essential also to check and clean the Anode every week if needed.
One of the benefits of the Remington Solar Chlorine-Free "Sun Shock" is that with the Anode working (solar panels), it will prevent algae and kill micro-organisms. If you want, you can lower the chlorine level to 1.0 – 1.5 ppm and run your pool with a low chlorine level. You can maintain your chlorine at 3.0 ppm if you choose, and the Remington Solar will still have the same benefits. Since it prevents algae, you will notice your chlorine use drop by as much as 50%, as algae is a big reason your chlorine is used up in your pool. If your pool has a continuous algae problem, the Remington Solar would be perfect. The test pool has step areas that get no Sunlight all year round.
One unit is suitable for 22,000 gallons of water, so you will need two units if you have a larger pool. They also now have an effective cleaning solution for the anode, so maintenance is simple and easy.
From the manufacturer:
"This solar water purifier protects you by transforming your water into biologically healthy and algae-resistant mineral water. Using a safe and effective low-power output, the Remington Solar water purifier acts as a trickle charger to generate ions from the sunlight. It works great in either salt-water or non-salt-water pool systems! Enjoy swimming in the most transparent, cleanest, and softest water imaginable without the unpleasant smell or taste of chlorine!
The Remington Solar Pool Sun Shock water purifier is the only cleaner that, in addition to generating beneficial mineral ions, collects undesirable minerals such as Calcium and iron. This has the effect of softening your water."
SODIUM BROMIDE:
Any Sodium Bromide product will work effectively in treating Yellow Algae. As long as the active ingredient is sodium bromide, it will work to clear up the algae.
Bring the chlorine up to what we refer to as "Blazing High" if it is at zero ppm. One common
mistake is not starting with a good chlorine level. Sodium Bromide will convert the chlorine to
Bromine and the Sun will also burn some off as the Bromine Molecule does not bond with the Cyanuric Acid molecule (the conditioner does not protect Bromine), so even more chlorine will burn off. And some chlorine will be "eaten" or used by the Yellow Algae.
So, having a good chlorine level of 5-10 ppm and adding a gallon of liquid chlorine or Clorox bleach with each four oz is essential—capful of Sodium Bromide. Otherwise, you might have an even worse problem.
But if you follow the procedure in the video below, the yellow mustard algae will be destroyed, and you can use a maintenance dose to prevent it from returning - about 1 oz.
Per 10,000 gallons. I use Sodium Bromide almost exclusively on my route, and week to week, it is the most effective way to treat algae.
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